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A Splendid Northern

Let’s explore a splendid northern city of Thailand in cold weather

         A shaft of golden sunlight glowed through the mist, making morning dew on grass glimmer, a sight that was able to fulfill your whole soul and keep you fresh all day. There exists the magnificence of mountains and nature to be appreciated by human beings. At the northernmost area of Thailand, Chiang Rai, various kinds of flowers and plants bloom and flourish everywhere.

         From Doi Wawee ,where the locals grow tea and fruits among the peaceful nature,  Doi Mae Slong where rare, cool-season plants thrive , to Phu Chee Fah National Forest Reserve, which is the site to appreciate the sea of mist and where Nang Phaya Sua Krong, or Thai Sakura, flourish all over. Apart from the beauty of nature, Chiang Rai is appreciated for the splendid architecture and arts. For example, the Chiang Rai Clock Tower, situated in the center of the city, has the same architectural style as Wat Rong Khun, with the elaborately carved pattern and is considered one of the most elegant building and a sacred place. Another distinctive construction is the Navel City Pillar of Chiang Rai, a carved stone pillar in Khmer style. Legend has it that those who pay the respect to the pillar will live happily and are safe from any dangers. Morover, you will be enchanted by the charm of the way the locals speak “Kham Muang”, a local dialect of Chiang Rai.  That food culture in a particular area can demonstrate the character traits of people there is provable. If you walk past the Clock tower not far, you will find many villagers do the shopping at the market “Gard Luang” where local foods are sold. After strolling to explore interesting things sold in the market, you will smell the good scents of burned banana leaves and curry paste stuffed in them. The scents are so tempting that they make your mouth water and your stomach protest loudly to eat. The northern call the food cooked in this way ‘Aeb’. Banana leaves are used to wrap minced pork mixed with curry paste and are folded into packets, fastened with toothpicks. Then, the packets are grilled and continually flipped side to side on a charcoal stove over a medium heat until the leaves turn a bit yellow. A high heat is not permitted, otherwise the leaves are burned and the meat is undercooked. It takes some time in the grilling process; rushing the process will burn the leaves too much, causing unpleasant smell and unappetizing look of food. Not far from the stove grilling Aeb, you will catch smell of burned bamboos, filled inside with sticky rice and black beans mixed with coconut milk and their holes covered with burned leaves. When the bamboo starts to become yellow, it will be rotated until turning equally yellow and cooked. After that, the tube will be sharpen for the customers to unwrap the bamboo more easily. Every cooking step is carried slowly and with great care. The ways of cooking and leading lives of the northerners do may remind you of familiar lyrics sung as “Ton-Yon-Ta-Ton-Yon-Ton-Yon-Ton-Yon-Ton-Yon”, meaning “Lalalalalah”. The meaning of this line quite reflects the northern people’s typical characteristics: patience and carefulness to finish things without haste.

         On Saturday evening, you can explore Lanna’s traditional ways of life at Gard Chiang Rai, a walking street, traveling back to the past, and helping restore the local heritage. At Gard Mua Kua Lang, or Mua Kua Lang market, there are many handicrafts and various works of art sold, and the food stalls providing carpets as seats for their customers who want to eat “Khan Tok”, a famous northern-Thai food and watch graceful Thai dance performance at the same time. You can dine, while watching the performance, and appreciating the environment. The decorations used in the fair are traditional Lanna , such as Lanna lanterns and woven pieces of cloth in order to preserve the true uniqueness and identity as much as possible.

         The enchanting charm of Chiang Rai, once the ancient Lanna, is too difficult to describe and include all details in just one page. Though the feeling and sight might change as time passes as sky, land, and water change its course, the splendor of the city, nature and its beauty of traditional arts, handicrafts, and ways of life still thrive like the old days.

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Credit by :
Manunchaya Wachiraprapakorn

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